martinMartin A/W 2014 : BEAUTIFUL DISTORTION [ 2 ]

mm34BeautifulDistortion Ugly/beautiful, deconstructivist architecture, off-kilter sculptures, loud discordant beautiful music are the key elements that comprise the 2014 Fall/Winter “Beautiful Distortion” Collection.

In the process of conveying beauty, allurement is achieved through a form of destruction and transformation. Altering traditional fashion principles to metamorphosize what is considered ugly into beautiful meaningful shapes is the rule here. Distortion changes the normal condition of design existence, the proper study, into the formative principles of what comprises beautiful anti-fashion.

To distort, twist awry or out of shape and then transform the crooked/deformed into objects of beauty, martinMARTIN utilizes the philosophical principles of beauty and distortion. By undermining Western hierarchies and the constrictions of beautiful/ugly, feminine/masculine, elegant/unkempt, new/old, perfect/imperfect, the designers adopt an approach that refuses to associate itself with clear cut gender, national or artistic labels and negates conventional Western fashion codes.

The label’s designs are characterized by a restrained palette dominated by the essence of all colours, black. Fabrications include classic British mainstays, Prince of Wales Plaid, Banker’s Pinstripe, Houndstooth and Wool Gabardine. Knitwear constructions exclusive to the brand and an array of hand-loomed sweaters, sweater jackets, blanket shawls, infinity scarves are the softening point to the collection. To contrast the softness, structural architectural leatherwear which features the distorted/draping technique unique to martinMARTIN and armor like pleating applications round out the line-up.

The yin and the yang of oversize silhouettes, severely slim cuts and the use of multiple layers that blur the contours of both the male and female body are abundant. Asymmetry and fabrics that echo the natural textures of flora and fauna found in nature are evident.

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Showing in Paris is a very stressful and time pressured thing.These pictures were just completed and I am happy to share them with you here. The new collection features asymmetric cutting to make unique hem layerings this season and also combining different fabrics to make coats and trousers. As you can see from one of the shots below , one of my favorite colors : Tibetan Red  will be featured.

More pictures coming soon…………

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As a teaser for their new A/W Collection Devoa decided to collaborate with their regular photographer Kazuyoshi Usui and avant-garde “ikebana” artist Megumi Shinozaki to create a series of pictures illustrating themes of evolution , camoflage / military motifs and a return to nature.

For this new collection Devoa were inspired by the study of the insect world and their process of metamorphosis and constant need for adaption and change to evolve and adapt to their environment.
In a similar way the Designer places great emphasis on the need for continuous development in technique and new material research rather than abrupt changes in style to suit shallow trends.

This season was also influenced by a visit to a Military Museum in Paris and the antique uniforms discovered there , particularly the detailing in the uniforms and the materials favored for both officers and regular troops.

Limited edition pieces will be created from antique , dead-stock fabrics previously used for Officers Jackets.
Materials that solved problems for the military in the past have been reconstructed for use in our modern life today.
A metamorphosis of a kind with the aim of perfecting construction to balance the functions of comfort , ease of wear and beauty of silhouette.
Design with universal application and appeal which still retains extremely high quality and style.





Photographer: Kazuyoshi Usui
Director : Naohiro Seki
Flower Creator : Megumi Shinozaki
Designer: Daisuke Nishid


Misomber Nuan is the mysterious International Label which moves between Berlin and Asia , East and West , reflecting the aesthetic qualities of both.The name of the Label is a combination of “Misomber” a word created by the Designer himself to describe a quality of solemnity and strength which he wants to emphasize in his creation and “Nuan” which is part of his family name and means “Warm / Glowing “. It is this juxtaposition that informs the design of the collections.

The name of this new collection is : “FROM A PLACE WHERE WE THINK WE KNOW”. The collection was inspired conceptually by the American artist Jackson Pollock : not so much by his famous drip paintings but more by his rough and untamed ideas and philosophy as well as the rhythms and abstraction present in his work.

Each collection is based on a specific aspect of human behavior and the theme for this one reflects an unrestricted , uncontrolled and unexpected personality type.

The Designer hopes that this collection will both surprise and provoke with new hidden details and unconventional ways of wearing both traditional and modern designs. Please see below for pictures from their new mood book and come see the collection for real in Paris this January.


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Last season at Stealth we were graced by a visit from the lovely Cecilia from Le Paradox. She took a series of beautiful images of our regular model Eri wearing pieces from their new S/S collection “Duality” which she has posted alongside her unique thoughts on the Label. Please click HERE to see more.

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