This season I wanted to move beyond narrative, theme and story, and really focus on fundamental aspects of tailoring, scale, shape and proportion.
I am always inspired by the Japanese masters of the 80s and the Belgian school of the 90s, both of which influenced the collection significantly.
The silhouette is very layered with the ultimate effect of being an upside-down pyramid.
Vest over jacket, over shirt, over another jacket, over a dress, over pants...to whatever degree the wearer is comfortable.
There are a lot or rounded shapes, and the scale can be quite exaggerated.
The materials are highly and diversely textured.
I'm using a lot of leather, fuzzy wools, smooth tech fabrics woven with metal, sandwashed cupro and silk.
There are a lot of prints this season, but keeping with the spirit of minimalism they are subtractive, rather than additive.
I'm tiring of fine, sharp digital prints in a myriad of colours, and instead wanted something more tactile, more sensitive.
We used exclusively bleach prints, to remove colour from the fibers instead of adding something to the surface of the fabric the way prints usually do.
Because this is a reactive process the results are impossible to control, leading to a more unique and artisanal effect.