The new A/W Collection is named “FORTRESS”

The new collection for AW13-14, explores the notion of clothing worn for armour and protection. Inspired by one of Australia’s most notorious outlaws Ned Kelly the Designers adopt this idea of “homemade armour” and translate it into a collection which shields and protects the wearer the same way armour would. FORTRESS not only embodies the concept of protection from a physical aspect, but the collection also delves into the personal and emotional shields that we, as soldiers of our own battles, construct in our day-to-day lives.

The collection displays garments that are strong and constructed in their appearance, yet are still classic in style and shape, with utilitarian functionality. FORTRESS also takes inspiration from the everyday and work wear of Australian miners during this particular Kelly era ; the “Gold Rush” period. The concept of “transitional” clothing, from work to formal, from day to night – these daily “uniforms” could adapt and change course, not only in appearance, but also in their functionality. The collection adopts this idea of “transitional utilitarian” clothing and through the use of high-tech fabrics and intelligent design, brings this concept into today’s world.

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The initial inspiration for this Collection came from a book by Xavier Zimbardo called The Monks of Dust. It contains daguerreotypes of Russian Orthodox monks who lived for centuries on Mount Athos in Greece. Having always been attracted to the ideas of devotion and discipline, I was intrigued to learn more about these men. One item that struck me was the existence of two distinct groups of clergy in this Church: the Parochial, who wear exclusively white and can marry; and the Monastic, who wear exclusively black and dedicate themselves to a higher calling. This tradition continues to the present.

Having always loved monochromatic dressing, I then began to explore this inspiration more literally, envisioning a journey from darkness into light. The color palette in the Collection that emerged is divided into a triptych: Coal, Ash and Alabaster.

The concise choice of fabrics further reflects an economy of purpose, consisting of pure linen, homespun cotton, and vegetable-dyed leather. I chose to use only one treatment for the cloth, a process called cold dyeing. This is not dissimilar to a technique these monks would have used in everyday life. Similarly, I chose to include footwear with a primitive feel made entirely out of Crosta — a split of leather before it’s shaved and smoothed, leaving its surface rough and uneven.

The looks are accessorized with cast bronze jewelry finished in matte colors corresponding to the garments.

– Alexander Plokhov

PHOTOS BY JO JO ASUNCION

The meaning of the Latin title of the third and most recent collection EX UMBRA IN SOLEM is “From the shadows into the Light”

The Designer says that rather than base each collection on a solid and obvious theme he prefers to guide the details of the garments and objects of the collection towards the meaning of a certain proverb. Ex Umbra in Solem uses perforated leathers that allow the light to pass through the garments, or some distressed knits that generate transparencies, some other pieces have zippers that allow the viewing of the construction of garments through the slits they create. For this season he also introduced various fetish objects to be worn as a jewelry collection.

 VULTURE MAGAZINE

For his second collection : IGNE NATURA RENOVATUR INTEGRA (“Nature Renewed By Fire”) the designer Nicolas Rivero embraced the concept of Alchemy : Each piece represents an allegorical purification process, driven by a regenerating fire that swallows and consumes everything, to give it a new life. Even the human soul joins this occult ritual and follows the flames in their own dance, gaining a new nature and deeper awareness of itself.

Garments are seen as an extension of the human body, meant to protect and be worn. The fine leathers and yarns were given a series of carefully studied treatments that give them a raw and aged look, outlining the living identity of each piece. The sharp and fluid cutting expresses the idea of perpetual change, an unstoppable passage from a materical state to another, which refers to ancient alchemical experiments. The dramatic draped silhouettes are developed through the “non finito” technique, creating an interesting contrast with the extremely tailored detailing of jackets. A range of ebony blacks, occasionally crossed by shades of dusty brown and gray, establishes the rough and essential aesthetic of the collection.

We are very happy to be able to publish for the very first time the official look-book pictures of Song For The Mute S/S 13 “LIGNE”.

The concept behind the collection came from when the designer Lyna spent a month and a half in Paris last January. It was the the weather in Paris that actually inspired her, the particular European cold and the feeling of cracking ice and fragility. She then adapted this aspect into Spring / Summer designs. For this SS13 range – they developed exclusive fabrics with mills from Japan and Italy. One of the main fabrics is an 100% wool organza. They call it ‘liquid wool’ : A wool that feels cold. It is probably the lightest wool possible at this moment .

Lyna describes this collection as ‘organic athletic’ – its a balance between organic, eco, natural fabrics and mixed with sportswear elements.

SONG FOR THE MUTE WEBSITE.

We are very pleased to be able to publish these sneak images from the new collection from Anglo-Italian Artisanal Label Androgino. The collection was inspired by and shot in Venice and will be on show in Paris this January. We intend to publish more pictures from their look-book very soon.

Rodeo Films production for A New Cross.
Director: Felipe Suárez
Producer: Lucho Parada / Rodeo Films
DOP: Nano Moreno
Art Director: Lucho Parada
Edit: Felipe Suárez
Color Grading and Composition: Jaime Guzmán
Stying: Nicolas Rivero
MakeUp Luisa Alvarado
Music: HTRK – Ha
Models: Gabriel Mejía, Luisa Alvarado

We are very pleased to introduce our new collaboration with A NEW CROSS.

The label is designed by Nicolas Rivero, a formally trained Fashion designer, graphic Artist and Drummer in his own Punk band.

We will soon publish pictures from his new F/W 2013 collection AB IMO PECTORE (“from the bottom of my chest”) which is about to be shown to Buyers for the first time later this month.

But first, we would like to show images from his previous collections, starting with F/W 2011 : CASUS BELLI

This latin phrase means “acts of war” and was designed with both Men and Women in mind.

Some informal pictures taken down at the harbor on an extremely hot and sunny day.

Most pics by Natsuyo Stealth / Padmini